TARU

Sengetsu age their rice shochu in oak they cooper themselves. No ex-bourbon, no ex-sherry, no second-hand casks from anyone, which is unusual: almost every aged spirit matures in barrels that held something else first. The toji selects from barrels over six years old and blends them.

Golden in the glass. Cherry, vanilla, and oak, with something like cream soda and birch beer underneath, sweet without being heavy. The finish is long and stays balanced rather than tipping into woodiness.

Neat or on the rocks, and the ice is worth watching: it keeps opening as it melts. Skip the water dilution, which thins out exactly what makes it interesting.