Sohomare Tokubetsu Honjozo “ Shogun’s Choice”

Sohomare brewery has brewed in Tochigi perfecture since the Kono family founded it in 1872, and they use kimoto across the range. Kimoto is the older, slower starter method: the mash is pounded down with poles, and the lactic acid develops on its own instead of being added, which builds acidity and a particular smoothness.

They also use Designation A Yamada Nishiki, the top grade of Japan's best-known sake rice, across the whole range rather than saving it for the flagship. Tokubetsu means special, and here it refers to the extra milling.

Green apple and Asian pear, with a bready, toasty note underneath and a lift of lime. Dry, light, and soft, finishing clean. It opens up in a white wine glass.

Good with sushi, sashimi, and yakitori, and just as good with burgers and fried fish.